For Ana Khouri, it’s less about style trends and more about an overall shift – from jewelers and jewelry aficionados – towards a more sustainable approach to making and buying jewelry, whether to find ways to be more respectful of the environment or the communities that extract valuable materials. “Everyone is increasingly aware of the environment and, in general, of the way we live, produce and consume,” she says. “At Ana Khouri, we only work with fair trade gold and gemstones that are responsibly and ethically sourced.” Her new collection for The Row even includes vintage rosewood recycled from an old chest in her family home in São Paulo.
Many jewelers are finding that customers are increasingly receptive to efforts to recycle their unworn pieces and are choosing vintage and antique jewelry over new jewelry. Joséphine Odet, VIP Buying and Sales Manager at Omneque, says movies and shows like Gucci House and And just like that have led to a resurgence of interest in vintage costume jewelry. In fact, she says, buyers are investing in “affordable rarities,” pieces of design history like Victorian skull rings that are unique but don’t break the bank.
Kimai, the diamond lab jeweler, has just launched Second Life, a service in which customers can restore an old piece in their jewelry box or have it redesigned to create something new. “After speaking with our customers and our community, we realized that many of us had pieces gathering dust in our jewelry boxes, and we wanted to provide a lasting solution to that. the Second Life service was born,” says co-founder Jessica Warch.
“I think people are looking to buy better. To make conscious decisions and invest in durable ‘life-proof’ designs made from high-quality materials,” says Ejdrup of Finematter. The e-tailer had an instant positive response to its Renew and Recycle services, which launched last September and encourage circular thinking and conscious consumption among jewelry owners.
Another thing that’s here to stay for the long haul: buying fine jewelry online, even expensive items that past customers would like to try on before handing over their credit card. “Since 2019, we’ve seen our jewelry category strengthen, with triple-digit growth in fine jewelry and double-digit growth in fashion jewelry,” says Wisdom of MatchesFashion. At Threads Styling, it continues to be one of its fastest growing categories, 40% more than in 2020. Quy says followers in the social media fashion hub are leaving their content with jewelers like Ananya, who share their creative influences and a behind-the-scenes look adorned with jewels. In the longer term, a recent fashion state a report by Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company estimates that global online jewelry sales are expected to grow from 13% to 18-21% of total jewelry sales between 2019 and 2025, which is a figure not to be sniffed at. -60 to 80 billion dollars.